🛒
In early 2019, I tried out TP-Link Omada access points (APs) for the first time to create a low-cost do-it-yourself mesh Wi-Fi system. Since then, I've used many sets—varying from two to five units. They are all still working today.
You can use these APs individually as standalone broadcasters, which is applicable to a small home where you only need one. In that case, check out my review of them as individual access points.
On the home front, TP-Link Omada hardware offers more features at a significantly lower cost than any similarly-specced purpose-built systems, such as the Netgear Orbi RBK860 series or even the supposedly low-cost Google Nest Wifi Pro.
For advanced users, an Omada-based mesh set is comparable to other highly flexible do-it-yourself setups, such as the Asus AiMesh and Synology Mesh, and better in terms of cost and wiring, thanks to the PoE support.
For business, among other things, going Omada means you won't need to pay a subscription when you want a cloud-based portal for remote management.
Keep in mind, though, that this is a business system, meaning it tends to be a bit harder to set up. Also, these access points use Power over Ethernet (PoE) and apply only to those who have run network cables.
Here's the bottom line: An Omada-based mesh system is not for everyone. But it's more than worth the cost and effort if you're looking to build a reliable mesh network for a large or even sprawling wired property. I highly recommend it.
Dong's note: I first published this review on March 26, 2019, using Wi-Fi 5 hardware and updated it on November 12, 2022, with Wi-Fi 6 access points.
TP-Link Omada Mesh: Advanced Wi-Fi solutions on affordable hardware
You can't label something as affordable without mentioning the price. So, here's the list of Omada hardware I've used in the past years and their current costs—there are other options, including those with faster Wi-Fi standards and tiers.
- Wi-Fi 5 access points (each has a Gigabit PoE port and includes a passive PoE injector):
- EAP225-Outdoor: $70
- EAP225: $60
- EAP245 access point: $80
- Wi-Fi 6 (each includes a power adapter):
- Controller:
- OC200: $100. Or
- Software controller: gratis (a network computer required.)
Omada Wi-Fi 5 access points generally include a passive PoE injector and no power adapter. The Wi-Fi 6 (and 6E) counterparts, however, don't have an injector but a power adapter. It's best to use them with a PoE switch. If you use one of these Omada-ready switches, it can be managed as part of the system, but a third-party switch works fine, and you can easily find Mulit-Gig options.
To put things in perspective, if I go with two low-end Wi-Fi 6 Omada EAP610 access points and an OC200 controller unit, the cost would be $260, significantly lower than a 2-pack Google Nest Wifi Pro.
Wi-Fi access points (APs) don't have the necessary routing function to form a network. Consequently, for this setup to work, you'll need a router. In this case, a standard non-WiFi one will work.
If you already have a router or use a provider-supplied gateway, you're ready. If not, get a good router. If you get a Wi-Fi router, you can turn off its Wi-Fi or configure it with the same Wi-Fi settings as the APs. You can also pick one of TP-Link's Omada-ready routers, which are generally geared toward business applications.
Though not ideal, you can mix Wi-Fi 6/6E and Wi-Fi 5 access points in the same Omada system.
TP-Link’s Omada business APs: A wide range of options
Depending on your property, you can choose a mix of different or the same supported access points. No matter what combination you use, the setup process and ongoing management remain largely the same.
For testing, in 2019, I chose two Wi-Fi 5 access points, and this second time, in late 2022, I used two Wi-Fi 6 units, as shown in the photos above.
Other than the Wi-Fi specs, these APs are similar. They support PoE and can work as standalone broadcasters or part of an Omada mesh when a controller is involved.
You can use a group of Omada access points as individual standard broadcasters, and they will deliver extensive Wi-Fi coverage. However, in this case, you'll need to manage them individually and have little or no mesh functionality.
That said, if you intend to use multiple Omada APs, a controller, such as the low-cost Omada OC200, is greatly recommended.
In terms of coverage, each unit can handle from 1700 ft2 (158 m2)to about 2500 ft2 (232 m2), depending on the specs. Based on your property's layout, you can choose from different applicable models.
Generally, with an existing router, a set of a few APs and a controller will give you a robust Wi-Fi system with many management options, Wi-Fi speeds, and features.
With that, let's check out the specs of the hardware tested extensively for this review.
Hardware specifications: Tested TP-Link business Omada-mesh access points
I've installed many Omada models in various locations, but the four below are those I tested for the official scores in the performance section below. I tried them using the same residential settings.
| TP-Link Omada EAP670 Wi-Fi 6 Access Point | TP-Link Omada EAP610 Wi-Fi 6 Access Point | TP-Link Omada EAP225-Outdoor Wi-Fi 5 Access point | TP-Link Omada EAP225 Wi-Fi 5 Access point | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Model | EAP670 | EAP610 | EAP225-Outdoor | EAP225 Wi-Fi 5 |
| Device Type | PoE Access Point | |||
| Accessories Included | • Power Adapter • Ceiling/Wall Mounting Kits | • Passive PoE injector • Ceiling/Wall Mounting Kits | ||
| Wi-Fi Bandwidth | Dual-band AX5400 | Dual-band AX1800 | Dual-band AC1250 | Dual-band AC1350 |
| 5GHz Band (channel width) | 4x4 AX: Up to 4804 Mbps (20/40/80/160MHz) | 2x2 AX: Up to 1201 Mbps (20/40/80MHz) | ||
| 2.4GHz Band (channel width) | 2x2 AX: Up to 574 Mbps (20/40MHz) | 2x2 Wi-Fi 4: Up to 300Mbps (20/40MHz) | 3x3 Wi-Fi 4: Up to 450Mbps (20/40MHz) | |
| PoE Standard | 802.3at PoE (injector not included) | 802.3at PoE 48V Passive PoE (injector not included) | 802.3af PoE (passive injector included) | |
| Port | 1× 2.5GbE (PoE) | 1× 1GbE (PoE) | ||
| Dimensions | 9.6 × 9.6 × 2.5 in (243 × 243 × 64 mm) | 6.3 × 6.3 × 1.3 in (160 × 160 × 33.6 mm) | 8.5 × 1.8 × 1.1 in (215 × 46 × 27 mm) | 8.1 × 7.1 × 1.5 in (206 × 182 × 37 mm) |
| Weight | 1.7 lbs (782 g) | .9 lb (402 g) | .37 lb (168.2 g) | 1.10 lbs (499 g) |
| MU-MIMO | Yes | |||
| OFDMA | Yes | No | ||
| Total SSIDs | 16 (8 for each band) | |||
| Captive Portal | Yes | |||
| Wireless Functions | • 1024-QAM • 4× Longer OFDM Symbol • OFDMA • Multiple SSIDs (Up to 16 SSIDs, 8 for each band) • Enable/Disable Wireless Radio • Automatic Channel Assignment • Transmit Power Control (Adjust Transmit Power on dBm) • QoS(WMM) • MU-MIMO • Seamless Roaming • Omada Mesh • Band Steering • Load Balance • Airtime Fairness • Beamforming • Rate Limit • Reboot Schedule • Wireless Schedule • Wireless Statistics based on SSID/AP/Client | • Multiple SSIDs (Up to 16 SSIDs, 8 for each band) • Enable/Disable Wireless Radio • Automatic Channel Assignment • Transmit Power Control (Adjust Transmit Power on dBm) • QoS(WMM) • Seamless Roaming • Omada Mesh • Band Steering • Load Balance • MU-MIMO • Airtime Fairness • Beamforming • Rate Limit • Reboot Schedule • Wireless Schedule • Wireless Statistics based on SSID/AP/Client | ||
| Power Adapter | Input: 110-240V Output: 12 V / 1.5 A DC (included) | PoE-only | ||
| Power Consumption (per 24 hours) | ≈ 210 Wh (measured with power adapter) | ≈ 170 Wh (measured with power adapter) | not tested | |
| US Price (at review) | $150 | $99 | $70 | $60 |
Three Omada controller options
Again, the main benefit of using a controller is the ability to manage multiple access points in one place—you can combine various hardware units into a robust mesh system.
There are three options for Omada controllers, including two hardware controllers—the $100 OC200 and the $160 OC300—and a free software controller.
TP-Link Omada OC200 vs. OC300 vs. software controller: The OC200 has two Fast Ethernet ports (100Mbps) and can handle up to 100 APs (or other Omada hardware), while the OC300 includes two Gigabit ports and support up to 500 hardware units.
Faster is generally better, but as controllers, the network speeds don't make any difference. If you have fewer than a couple of dozen APs, there's no reason to get the OC300, but it doesn't hurt.
The software controller requires a network computer and can also handle up to 500 hardware units. It's best used in a network with a Windows server running 24/7.
The hardware controllers allow users to manage their mesh locally—no personal information is required—with an option to add a TP-Link Tether login account to turn the network management cloud-based via TP-Link.
If you use the software controller, you must surrender your email up front, even before incorporating it with a Tether account.
No matter which controller you use, you'll manage the mesh network via a standard web user interface. And when you opt for the TP-Link login cloud, there's also an optional TP-LInk Omada mobile app.
TP-Link and your privacy
Having to sign in with an account generally means your hardware connects to the vendor at all times, which translates into inherent privacy risks. On this matter, the Chinese networking company, among other things, insists that it is based in Hong Kong and offers this assurance:
"TP-Link takes privacy seriously and complies with U.S. policies to protect consumers."
TP-Link's Privacy Policy page.
Managing your home network via a third party is never a good idea. Privacy is a matter of degree. Data collection and handling vary vendor by vendor.
Other than that, here are some extra bullet points:
- You need to use a controller from the beginning. Suppose you're already using an AP or APs as individual standalone broadcasters and later want to add a controller. In that case, you'll need to reset them all to factory settings and build the mesh from scratch—the controller only detects non-initialized APs.
- Conversely, once a controller is involved, you can no longer manage any AP individually—until you reset it.
- You can only use one controller in a system at a time. To change from one controller to another, you can export (back up) the settings from the old one and import them to the replacement. You'll need to reset the hardware and set up the entire system from scratch if a backup is unavailable. (It's a good idea to make a backup to export the settings after each time you've made some changes.)
- Ideally, you should have a controller running at all times. However, you might be able to turn it off occasionally.
I've always used the OC200, and it's proven to be more than worth the small extra cost.
I've tried the software controller with similar success, but having a computer on at all times only for the Wi-Fi system can be a big waste of energy, not to mention the much higher hardware cost. So use the software only if you already have a computer running 24/7 for other needs.
It's worth noting that I've never used more than five Omada APs in a system. In most of my real-world cases, two or three were enough for the coverage. But no matter how many you use, the general experience is the same.
Omada OC200 Cloud Controller: Compact and PoE
The OC200 is the most practical of the three options. It's an affordable compact device that packs a good punch.
Specifically, the OC200 can manage up to 100 Omada APs in a single system. It has both PoE and micro-USB power options. Interestingly, it includes neither an injector, a power adapter, nor a USB cable.
That said, you'll need to use this controller with a PoE switch—it supports 802.3af PoE standard. You can also plug it into a phone charger via a standard micro-USB cable or a computer's USB port.
Omada OC200: Hardware specifications
| Interface | 1 × 10/100Mbps Port 1x 10/100Mbps PoE port 1 × USB 2.0 Port (configuration backup) 1 × Micro USB Port (power) |
| Power Supply | 802.3af PoE (compatible with PoE+ and PoE++) Micro USB（DC 5V/1A） |
| Dimensions | 3.9 × 3.9 × 1.0 in (100 × 98 × 25mm) |
| Management Scale | Up to 100 Omada access points, routers, or switches |
| Wireless Functions | L3 Management Multi-SSID Load Balance Band Steering Airtime Fairness Beamforming Rate Limit Wireless Schedule QoS |
| Supported Wireless Security | Captive Portal Authentication Access Control Wireless Mac Address Filtering Wireless Isolation Between Clients SSID to VLAN Mapping Rogue AP Detection |
| AP Management | Automatic device discovery Batch configuration Batch firmware upgrading Intelligent network monitoring Event logs and notifications Unified configuration Reboot schedule Captive portal authentication |
| Authentication | WPA/WPA2 Personal and Enterprise Captive Portal Facebook login SMS authentication Voucher authentication |
TP-Link Omada Mesh Setup: It can be a bit involved
Considering Omada mesh is a PoE system, the setup process has two parts: hardware and software.
Hardware setup
This part is like that of any PoE device. Depending on where you want to mount the access points, it can be quick or time-consuming.
You first need to install the APs and run network cables from them to your router (or switch). If the router is not PoE-enabled—most routers aren't --, you'll need to connect the APs via injectors or a PoE switch.
Thanks to the included mounting accessories, you can quickly mount a TP-Link Omada AP with a drill. In my experience with a dozen or so of these devices, the longest part is running the network cables. The controller can be placed next to a PoE switch or near a USB power source, such as a computer's or router's USB port.
That said, for a test with an EAP670 and EAP610, the hardware setup took me about 10 minutes—but only because the area has been wired. Things will be different in your situation, but it's best to get you placed wired today.
Getting your home wired: How to get that done like a pro
Software setup
This part is where you get the system up and running. You'll only need to deal with the controller, which will take care of all involved APs. This process requires slightly more work than setting up a standard router.
The reason is you first need to find out the controller's IP address via your router's interface. Now, open the IP using your browser, and you'll get to the controller's interface. Now, things are similar to setting up a home Wi-Fi router.
Alternatively, you can also set up the controller using the TP-Link Omada mobile app. This app allows you to sign up for an account with TP-Link. You can use the app to manage your mesh even when you're out and about.
The mobile app has a function that allows you to add a controller (or any Omada device) by scanning its QR code with the phone's camera. Interestingly, I got a "device that doesn't exist" response. I had to manually enter the serial number instead, which worked. Likely, that was a fluke. I had no doubt a new firmware, software, or app version would fix that.
The app doesn't have in-depth access to the system like a web interface. That said, I recommend using the interface instead. You can also use the app to determine the controller's IP address and then use the interface.
All Wi-Fi settings you’d need
During the setup process, the OC200 automatically detects connected supported APs in the network.
Adding them to a mesh and setting up the system's first SSID (for both bands via Smart Connect) is just a matter of a few clicks around the web interface. And then you can call it a day. Your mesh system is ready.
In most cases, you can move on if you only need Wi-Fi coverage. Or you can also spend the rest of the day customizing your network. Now there are a lot of things you can do.
First, you can set up each band with eight separate Wi-Fi networks (SSIDs), then customize each in great detail. For example, you can set it up as an isolated network, allowing connected clients to access the Internet but not local resources—similar to a Guest network.
You can set each SSID's cap bandwidth (both upload and download). Better yet, as mentioned above, there's an option for a captive portal, forcing clients to agree on terms of service or check in via Facebook before getting access.
There are also customization options for the mesh functionality, such as seamless hand-off, band-steering, and auto-failover for the APs. These allow clients to switch between hardware units and Wi-Fi bands quickly.
In terms of network monitoring, you can quickly figure out what's going on in your network in great detail. For example, you can look at a client and find out which AP it connects to, using which band, for how long, how much data it has downloaded, and so on. And you can block any unwanted client with a click.
In all, with a controller, an Omada-based mesh system gives all you need (or want) in a robust business mesh system, including cloud management. The solution is comparable to Insight managed by Netgear, if not better, without any additional cost.
Other than the hardware cost, there are no additional costs with TP-Link Omada, no matter how you want to use the products.
TP-Link Omada Mesh: Excellent performance
Before this update, I used many Wi-Fi 5 Omada-based mesh systems for years, including a few outdoor units. None of them had issues.
This test system, running a pair of EAP670 and EAP610 APs, has been trouble-free for over 10 days. And I have no doubt it will last as well as its Wi-Fi 5 counterpart.
The mesh system's hand-off worked exceptionally well. The switch from one AP to another is so seamless and swift that I couldn't notice it—with most mesh systems I've tested, this took a brief moment. I even tried unplugging one AP during a test. In this case, the connected client switched immediately to the other without a hitch.
Generally, it's not recommended that you mix Wi-Fi 5 and Wi-Fi 6 in the same mesh, though that will work with Omada APs. I haven't tried that, however.
As for Wi-Fi speeds, I stacked the APs up against other access points and high-end Wi-Fi 6E mesh satellites (via wired backhauling), and the Omada APs held their own pretty well, as you can see on the chart.
The Wi-Fi coverage was also excellent. Two units placed 120 feet (37m) apart could cover 6000ft² (560m²) with reliable Wi-Fi signals. During my extended testing, the systems (running Wi-Fi 5 or Wi-Fi 6 hardware) didn't have any disconnection.
Remember that the throughput speeds and Wi-Fi coverage change depending on your environment and hardware. Your mileage will vary.
TP-Link Omada-based DIY PoE Mesh's Rating
Pros
Excellent Wi-Fi coverage, fast performance
Affordable; easy setup option; no additional cost for management
Lots of mesh features and settings
Many APs include mounting accessories and PoE or power adapter
The system can be managed via a local web user interface, a useful optional mobile app
Cons
A controller is needed; the hardware controller can't work as a router, nor does it include a power adapter or PoE injector
Networking knowledge is required to set up and maintain
Conclusion
Among all the business access points I've tried, TP-Link's Omada family is among the best, thanks to its practical design, flexible hardware combos, ease of use, and affordability.
Again, you do need to run network cables which is a no-go in many cases—all of these APs will work in a wireless configuration, but you'd need a network cable to power them via PoE anyway. And getting your place wired is the only sure way to build a Wi-Fi network of multiple broadcasters without compromising the performance.
If you live in a large home or have a big office, consider a few TP-Link Omada access points and a controller, and your Wi-Fi situation is a go. Here's the bonus: You can upgrade the APs in the future as Wi-Fi progresses and keep your current controller.
To put it in a sentence: If you're willing to put in some serious legwork, a TP-link Omada-based mesh will be a satisfying return on investment. Build one today!
Hi Dong,
Can the Deco XE75 units ( i have 2 ) be used as AP in the omada mesh system ? or i really need Omada AP
In my future setup i will have:
Router TP-Link ER706W (and i can deactivate wi-fi if necesarly) which has connected PoE Switch TL-SG2428P and switch:
TP-Link TL-SG3428 ( here the OC200 controller is connected )
So i want to connect some Omada AP to the PoE Switch but i would like to use also the existing old deco units as AP connected via cable to the non PoE Switch – is this possible ?
Unfortunately i cannot test yet, because the equipment is not installed, i am still renovating the new house and pulling cables as much as possible so i will install the equipment somewhere in Oct-Nov 🙂
Thank you!
You can use APs with any existing network that has available network ports. You can NOT make non-Omada hardware part of an Omada system.
Hi Dong,
Thanks, then i will try to sell the deco and go for Omada AP so the whole hardware is Omada compatible
Thank you!
Yeap. Omada is way more advanced. You’ll feel a bit overwhelmed at first when moving from the Deco, but you’ll love it eventually.
Hi Dong
Thanks for the write ups.
Can I run an ap via powerline?
Regards
s
You can’t or can run any app or zero app via powerline, S. That depends on what each of the words in your question means.
I’ve run 8 APs running off of the Jetstream Switches with no issues and even get reports off of these Omada controlled switches. I’m finding that their Firewall is better than a consumer grade router but I don’t have anything sensitive behind it anyhow. I would recommend the APs and Switches but might put out a little more for a proper firewall.
Forgive me if this is a noob question. My life was rocked when I blew threw both a threw both a cellular and home ISP data cap. I use an Netgear Orbi mesh and it does not have a good device management to help me identify which was consuming all the data. I just bough an Eero mesh which has better software to find the data hogs but my speed and some controls have suffered. So my question, I’m considering the TP-Link but wanted to know if I could use just the controller and router connected to my Orbi instead of the TP-Link wireless AP? Would they be able to see all the devices and activity from the Orbi?
Generally, Thomas, none of those canned mesh systems has much in configuration or settings. Yout want a good router. As far as I know Asus router has a traffic monitor feature (free) while TP-Link Archer router has something you can use but it requires a subscription. Here are some tips on how to conserve your bandwidth.
Thanks for the feedback. However, you didn’t mentioned about compatibility. Is it not possible? I think I found the culprits. My bandwidth is falling back to typical. I’m just trying to avoid being caught off guard again. Do you think this is just overkill? I appreciate your write and honesty.
It’s just a feature that you can use or not, so it has nothing to do with overkill or not.
Thanks for the incredibly thorough review.
I’ve been looking at various network solutions in an attempt to better cover my large are home network, these products may just be what I need.
Sure, Nate. Good luck! 🙂
I’m looking at this product line for our ranch layout house 3300 sq ft main floor, 3300 sq ft full basement.
I’m thinking of 3 EAP670 APs, one for main floor center, one for one end of house main floor, one for basement other side of house.
Does that AP coverage sound decently reasonable?
I will have to site survey before install.
Need to convince wife that EAP670 is no more intrusive than a large smoke alarm, she is balking on having one on the ceiling of the great room
That seems reasonable, Matthew. Good luck with the wife acceptance angle!
Thank you for the in-depth analysis.
TP-link seems to get some flak for not updating firmware for older hardware versions (e.g. V1) once newer versions (e.g. V2, V3, etc) are released.
I’m thinking of going for EAP650 x2 + OC200 for my new home (3 level house with concrete/brick floors/walls). I don’t see any firmware available for either of these 2 hardwares (both on V1). Does that mean that there won’t be any “firmware” to update, and hence no worry about them going EOL?
Also, I’m new to mesh networks and not sure if the 2xEAP650 are going to be sufficient for my place (built-in area about 3200sqft over 3 levels). I’ll be re-using my existing router (Synology RT1900ac).
Thanks!
There’s no expiration date on Wi-Fi broadcasters, Ramani. More in this post.
Interesting read Dong.
Perhaps I have been spoilt by the regular SRM updates from Synology for my nearly 7-year old router.
SRM has lot of functions. It’s more of an operating system than firmware, hence, it generally requires more patches. You weren’t “spoiled”. There’s no glory in patching (not all new firmware releases are “updates”), but mostly necessity.
Thanks for updating your article! One addition/observation. I love the Omada gear, a poor man’s Meraki but with no hefty subscription fees. I have six networks setup for my office, friends and family and our rental. I love the free cloud portal as I can manage networks anywhere from anywhere. The observation is that although the mesh function used to require Ethernet, I noticed recently that using EAP650s with the OC200 that the mesh was working wirelessly! A surprise to me as originally that wasn’t the case.
Love Omada, started buying their POE switched and next up I’m going to try their router. Having the ability to manage all networks from one place is invaluable. Thanks for the great content!
There’s no point in not using wired back hauling since it powers these PoE APs anyway, Aaron. Any AP with WDS — and they all have it — can work wirelessly but that’s not ideal for performance. I’d not recommend it. But I hear you. Thanks for sharing the XP.
Hi Dong. Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge, insight, reviews and suggestions. I’ve learned a lot over the past several days.
I just purchased the Orbi Pro Mini. It’s a great system and I like it a lot, but it’s features a too limited for my needs. I want some devices on my secure network to be able to communicate with devices on my IoT network. For example, if I want to cast from my computer or tablet onto a media player; or if I want my computer to be able to access my media server. I don’t think the Orbi Pro Mini supports that functionality across VLANs. I think building my own mesh system for my home/home office is the way to go because my rules are only limited by my router’s functionality. I’m thinking about picking up the TP-Link ER605 Omada Gigabit VPN router for this. You have any thoughts on that? And I’m trying to decide if I should keep the Orbi Pro Mini and just put it in AP mode (which I believe will continue to operate as a mesh system), or if I should pick up a TP-Link controller and some APs and build my mesh system more like how you described here. What are your thoughts?
Thanks again for all you do.
You have a weird understanding of VLAN, Peter :). You can’t have a device isolated yet not isolated. More on that in this post about guest networks.
your website needs some more advertisements
there are not enough toolbars and crap popping up everywhere
Ads pay for the free and no-nonsense content, Ralfie. Thanks for your support!
Get an adblocker if it’s such a bother to you! but remember, this guy put his time, money and effort into testing all of this and explaining the point’s for users interested in that particular topic. The least you could have done is thanked him you ungrateful arrogant twit.
If you use an adblocker the site is blocked and unreadable – including “Donate” buttons.
I agree with ralfie: The advertisements outweigh the content.
A shame. Dong puts a lot into this, but ruins it with over-commercialization (greed).
Thanks for the input, Joe, but you can subscribe and block the ads. Just follow the link on the adblocker detector message. Thanks for the support!
Thank you for this great article.
Quick question on the OC200: I read somewhere that in order to have the fast roaming working properly, it needs to run at all time, can you confirm?
You can easily test that yourself. My take is this is a matter of degrees. In my experience with two APs, that worked the same in either case. Remember, though, that roaming is a tricky business.
Hey, Dong! I really want to deploy an omada system in my home! Will the handoff between access points i.e. “mesh network” functionality still work if I set up the APs with a software controller and then turn the controller off?
There’s no definitive answer to your question, Patrick. Hand-off (even with the control) depends on many things. More on that here.
Let’s be clear here. WiFi access points do not do “handoff”. Transition between APs is strictly client-driven, although APs can provide additional information to the client to help influence its behavior with things like neighbor reports (and annoyingly, every vendor does it slightly differently, which is why band steering universally sucks, even with enterprise vendors.) Neighbor reports (.11k) don’t rely on the controller being actively on the network since they are generated locally at the AP (they are a list of other APs as seen by the AP). Fast transition (.11r) doesn’t really do anything useful in a small consumer-scale network that uses PSK, since there isn’t anything to cache. 11r also sucks even in enterprise networks. It only exists to shorten the encryption negotiations during client transition such that they don’t dump a SIP voice call.
Mesh (802.11s) is just a wireless connection from the APs to the network. Most APs support this, which is a common connection mode in residential networks where Ethernet to where you need it is uncommon (hence “mesh systems” – that just means they support meshed connections). If you have to do mesh, it’s generally best to dedicate a 5GHz radio to it, or 6GHz if that’s an option, because the APs on the mesh network usually have the ability to take advantage of more than two spatial streams and wider channels, even if your client devices don’t. This somewhat makes up for the downside of all APs on the mesh having to share one channel for every root node that is connected via a wire. If you have to mesh some of your APs, that’s fine, but if you mesh one, don’t feel like you have to mesh all of them. It’s a great option for when you can’t get a wire to them. And, of course, Ethernet is also the best way to power your APs. It’s a shame more consumer gear doesn’t support PoE, it’s the best way to power a lot of devices. Mesh can also be set up (many systems configure it by default) as a backup connection if Ethernet is lost.
I think everyone knows there’s no actual “hand” in Wi-Fi or “leg,” for that matter, Ian. It’s a manner of speaking, and by that, I mean “writing,” in this case.
Your input makes things a bit confusing, a.k.a “unclear”, unfortunately. Still, thanks for the effort! 🙂
Maybe check out this post on mesh in simple terms.
Hey Dong. Really appreciate your clear explanation here. I am just curious – the TP link documentation always has a switch between the router and the access points. I note that you connected your APs directly to a router (including the OC200).
What’s the purpose of a switch in this set up? I guess it’s not mandatory?
The LAN ports on a router are basically part of its built-in switch, Dee. More here.
Hello sir, i found your posts this morning and i gotta admit that they have helped alot and i wanted to thank you for that!
Im running a Business with 4 Small Villas under the same building, but because its a new construction and there were many Wall Isolation materials installed im trying to build a nice seamless Single SSID Wifi Network where they will connect without having to change network depending their location within the premises.
I am about to get:
4 x EAP225 Indoor to place into each Central spot of each Villa (Via Ethernet cable for each one)
2 x EAP 225 Outdoor
(also via Ethernet Cable for each one of them) on each side of the build as there are also 2 Pools for my customers to use.
As i understand from your writing its best to get also the OC200.
Which is fine.
Questions are:
1. Will they work in Mesh since they are connected via Wire ?
2. I am Planning to get as well a Switch in order to connect it to my ISP’s Modem Router and then distrubute via Ethernet as i mentioned above to all the EAP Devices.
But i see you used a Router, Do i need a Router ?
My plan is :
ISP’S Modem Router —->
SWITCH–> EAP + OC200
Will this work ?
Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post.
Hi Efstathios,
1. Yes. Read the review!
2. Your gateway is a router. More here.
Since we can do a network Via Wired connections,
Why do i need a Router ?
The Switch is Not enough for distribution of the Network to the EAPS?
You first need to know what a router is, so check the link in my previous answer. And yes, each network needs a router.
Hello sir Again, i read and understood the reason for the Router!
Thank you 😊
May i ask again, do i need an TP Link Omada Supported Switch, or any Switch Will do ?
Any unmanaged switch will do, Chris.
May i Ask for some elaboration about what do you mean by “Unmanaged”
Or some link to read again !?
Maybe you can suggest a 16 Port TP Link Switch ?
Thank you once again you have been very helpfull!
You can use the site’s search, Chris. But here’s the link.
Dear sir !
Thank you very much, after 3 days i managed to install Omada Devices:
4x TP Link EAP225 Wall
2x TP Link EAP225 Outdoor
All via an SG2210MP V1 Switch and the omada OC200 Controller.
Everything is working perfect and im lovinh the Voucher Authentication system
Thank you alot for your help !
Glad it worked out, Efstathios. And you’re welcome! 🙂
In may 2019 someone asked you:
“Drew May 7, 2019 at 9:19 pm
If I get a few EAP245 V3 and give them all the same SSID and password, do I need the cloud controller to make it a mesh system (ie to manage a seamless handoff from one AP to another)? Or can the APs handle that without help from the cloud controller? Thanks!”
… and you replied:
“Dong Ngo
May 7, 2019 at 9:33 pm
Yes, having the same SSID and password doesn’t automatically turn them into a mesh — no seamless handoff. You can download the controller software and run that on a computer (and skip the hardware controller) but, for the most part, the machine will need to run all the time. The controller is a good investment, it’s not that expensive.”
Basically stating having the controller it’s important you need it for seamless handoff.
18 months later I found this comment:
“Ben Stiller January 5, 2021 at 4:51 am
One last question — on the controller, you mention that you should leave it running at all times. If I leave it running, what is the controller doing when you’re not using it to make config changes to the APs?
Or, if I shutdown the controller, what differences will I notice as a user of the wifi network?”
and you replied this:
“Dong Ngo January 5, 2021 at 9:07 am
Read the review again, Ben. But the user will notice nothing about the controller. You should leave it on if you want it to actively control the mesh but that’s generally important only when you have many APs.”
So, now, having the controller is now, not important, and the client won’t notice now it keeps connected to farther APs with low quality connection?
Please clarify. And yes I read the whole article already, two times 🙂
Thanks, Cesar
Reread my answers, Cesar. It’s a matter of degrees. In a perfect world, if nothing is changed once you’ve set up the APs, the controller is not necessary after that — it sets the AP in the best settings for the hand-off, it doesn’t actively manage the handoff in real-time, that’s between the APs and the clients, or the router. Like I said, if you’re in doubt, let the controller run at all times. (Or not and find out yourself the differences). Don’t think of anything as black and white.
Controller is only needed 24/7 for those using captive portal.
That makes sense. Thanks for the input, John.
Hi Dong
Following your great reviews I now have an Asus Zen XT8 AiMesh set up indoors which is working great. I want to push the wifi out into the garden ( 25 metres long) so I’m looking at installing a TP EAP225 connected to the 1st Zen XT8 by cable with POE outside. Is there any way that I can seamlessly link this into my Aimesh system or will I just have to accept that I will need to switch to the TP wifi when in the garden? Is there a better alternative to achieve this using another type of externally mounted device to get wifi into the garden that integrates seamlessly with the Zen XT8 Aimesh system?
Just name the Wi-Fi network of the TP-Link (and password) the same as that of the XT8, David. That will work out — devices connected to the AP is part of the network and you can manage them from within the interface of the XT8. You can’t control the AP from the XT8’s interface, however, but the handoff should work, relatively. More here.
Dong,
This is the most comprehensive review I´ve read about the TP-Link “Ecosystem”. Haven’t found this material anywhere else, not even with TP-Link site of community forums. Congrats on that!! Excelent job!!
I run 4 APs at the moment in standalone mode. I have many conflicts and the handouts are terrible (enviroment similar to a hotel). I´ve bought an OC200 controller and will setup this weekend. I was confused with a comment above saying that the client side is responsible for “letting go” of an AP and moving to the next. If so, adding the controller should not help at all right? I thought the controler commanded the AP to drop the connection and commanded another AP to pick it up. This would mean that the OC is constantly monitoring clients of each AP, and measuring which AP has the strongest signal to that particular mac adress right? Then it would temporarily block the weaker APs from picking it up and unblock them once the client connects to the strongest AP.
Am I right? Is it worth it installing the OC200?
The controller will give you a lot more, well, control, David. Too many to list. But you will have to reset all of the APs and set them up from scratch with the controller. It can be a bit of work. But if you have three APs or more, the controller will make life easier. I’d say go for it.
1. Setup the controller and have it adopt all of your access points.
2. Place the access points on the map in relation to where they are. This will help the controller figure out how it should handle wireless devices roaming.
3. Turn down the transmit power on all your Access points (you will have to play with this setting on each ap, as things that block wifi signals will affect each ap. *More power is not always better, I work for a large Business where we have over 800 Access points in a large building this makes a difference.) This will help with clients disconnecting from an access point that it is further away from and connect to the one that is closer such as a cellphone/laptop moving through the building.
** If your controller is offline the access points will not be able to as efficiently try and move a client to a more appropriate access point.
Doug do you have any experience with controlling Gateways or Safestream Routers or Jetstream Switches using the Omada Controller?
No, David. I think they are unrelated, though, the Omada is for TP-Link APs, so it’ll work no matter what router you use. The name is Dong by the way. 🙂
Hi, the Omada controller can also manage selected Jetstream switches and Safestream router. So you can indeed manage your entire networks from one interface.
Any clue as to the Firewall capabilities of the SafeStream and does anyone in the thread deployed any?
I have one in a test network and have been unable to find any decent documentation except what is available via the Omada web interface. Would love to hear more details from anyone.
Hi Dong,
I have a TP Link Deco M5 system (2 units) setup in Access Point (AP) mode with a wired Gigabit backhaul to my router, but I was looking into changing over to two TP Link Omada AC1350s (EAP 225) instead to give me better control over the guest network, since the Deco doesn’t really support guest network VLANs and there’s more configurability.
But, from reading your post and the comments, it sounds like the EAP 225’s don’t actually form the same kind of “mesh” that the Deco’s do out-of-the-box, even if you set both EAP 225 AP’s to the same network names and passwords. What’s the main functional difference?
Also, I did some wi-fi signal strength testing (non-scientific) using the iOS Airport Utility on my phone comparing the Deco versus the EAP 225 placed in the same location with me at different places in my house, and found the Deco to be a few dB’s stronger on average in terms of signal strength. I would have expected the EAP 225 to have a better signal. Any ideas why that may be the case?
Given that I’m looking for better Guest network control (VLAN) and maybe a little better performance in terms of signal strength, what do you recommend? Another Omada model? Ubiquity APs?
Thanks!
Ben,
1. More on testing here.
2. The Omada solution is TOTALLY different from the Deco. That’s the whole point.
3. Read the review again, you’ll know when you can manage multiple Omada APs in one place. Hint: You need a controller.
Generally, though, if you’re used to the Deco (and Apple stuff), it’s gonna be hard to move to something more advanced. That’s not to mention Apple has terrible support for Wi-Fi in general.
Thanks Dong. I noticed in your benchmark tests the EAP 225’s outperformed the Deco M5, so that’s helpful.
I only tested the EAP 225 in standalone AP mode, not using the controller. I assume there’s a mesh configuration setup on the controller with new options that ultimately make the APs work more like the Deco’s mesh.
One last question — on the controller, you mention that you should leave it running at all times. If I leave it running, what is the controller doing when you’re not using it to make config changes to the APs?
Or, if I shutdown the controller, what differences will I notice as a user of the wifi network?
Thanks!
Read the review again, Ben. But the user will notice nothing about the controller. You should leave it on if you want it to actively control the mesh but that’s generally important only when you have many APs. I didn’t do an exhaustive testing with the controller off and I reviewed this years ago.
Isn’t the controller supposed to be helping in the handoff process and that’s the reason for letting it on all the time?
Yes and no, Cesar. For a small network of a few APs, it’s fine to have it off. But of course, it’s always better to have it on at all times, which is how it’s supposed to be used.
Hi,
I have purchased 3 EAP, two indoors and one outdoor, I have conected to the first indoor with my computer and configured its wifi SSID and password. I have also installed the Omada Controller on my PC.
My issue is that the software controller is not finding the EAP.
I have tried the Android app, have my pc connected to the EAP instead of the router, tried cable connecting to the same router of the EAP. None of these lets me find the EAP on the software interface.
I do not want to buy an OC200 to control everything, I just want the EAPs to be found and configure a “simple” mesh.
Can you share some thoughts on how I can do this? It is driving me insane for the last two weeks and TP-Link`s FAQ, guides and tutorials are not shining any lights.
Thanks either way.
You can’t use the controller with an already-set up AP, Renato. I mentioned that specifically in the review. Check the note on controller part. Serious, paying attention when reading something helps. The devil is always in the details.
I tryed the reset button on the EAP to return it to factory, it resets the SSID, password, etc. The Omada Android app still can find it as a Standalone AP, I did not click on it, didn`t interact with it in any way.
Still cannot find it on the Software Controller.
The AP is connected with a cable to the same router as my PC is.
I will keep trying to understand what is lacking.
Thank you.
I’ve set up about a dozen of networks with these APs. They are among the easiest in business products. Make sure your router has standard settings and can give out IPs via DHCP, etc. And turn off the firewall on your computer.
check your controller version, whether it is compatible with your EAPs.
Hey Dong,
Thanks for the indepth review. Was wondering where the “mesh” is in this setup. If all APs are hardwired back to a POE switch that connects to the router, there is no mesh functionality right? To connect these APs in mesh mode you would hardwire one of them and the rest would just be powered but not connected to a router? They would then connect to the hardwired AP through wireless backhaul and “mesh” together?
Sorry for the confusion.
Check out this post, Bubb, so that at least we can be on the same page of what a mesh is.
@Dong Any access point that uses ethernet for backhaul is by definition *not* mesh. In Wi-Fi, meshing has a very specific meaning, relating to using a wireless link to backhaul to the nearest mesh root (an AP that broadcasts the mesh SSID and that is connected to the rest of the network via a wired connection). The actual mesh is a dedicated SSID on one or more nodes, and the mesh access points are wireless clients on that SSID — and can also broadcast the mesh SSID to extend it farther out. (it’s best to have a dedicated radio for this – sharing a radio doubles your airtime usage for each hop it has to take to get to the root AP – best practices do not recommend more than two hops)
It’s a commonly held misconception (perpetrated by consumer marketing departments) that “mesh” refers to any system that has multiple access points sharing a common configuration, but that is not accurate. That’s nothing more than a centrally managed wireless network with multiple APs (some or all of which can be meshed). You can achieve the same thing by using multiple standalone access points and configuring them all the same way. An SSID shared by multiple access points is officially known as an ESSID.
APs can make a mesh when they can be managed at a centralized location, C.
@Dong Ngo, that’s not a mesh. That’s a centrally managed system. In networking, a mesh is when each access device in the network is connected (active or standby) to every other device in the network. If you have a mesh topology of 5 Ethernet switches, each switch has a link directly to all the other switches. This is not common as it poses a number of loop problems. Star or partial mesh topologies are far more common.
In wireless, the access devices connected to Ethernet are root nodes, and mesh nodes can connect their backhaul to any AP broadcasting the mesh SSID (and the beacons include whether it is a root node or not)
I think you’re playing a game of semantics here, C (and winning!). So, sure you can go on thinking however a mesh is that fits your definition. I’m not just going to take part. Again, thanks for the input. 🙂
@Dong Ngo, not semantics. This is the technical definition of meshing, which is in the 802.11 standard that defines how WiFi works. Standards exist for a reason.
you claim to know tech. focus on the actual tech, not the marketing hype around it.
Two things, C.
1. I don’t agree with you. And I don’t need or want to prove anything.
2. I don’t do hypes and stuff like that. Feel free to check out my other reviews and to find out yourself. Or not.
Like I said, I appreciate your input. It’s time for you to let it go. Take care.
Hi Dong,
First of all, thank you very much for all your great articles. They are really helpful and comprehensive!
I am planning to set up an omada mesh network in a home environment. I am also planning to upgrade the router, since now I am using the router functionality of my ISP, which could be better.
I have also read your reviews on the top notch routers, and I am now hesitating what I should buy. An AX88U does seem like a very powerful machine, but if I only would use it as a router, and not use its wifi capability, it would be a quite of an overkill I guess? And I also guess that the wifi bands of such a router does not work so seemlessly together as those APs in the omada mesh, or will they?
What would you advise? And do you have a high performance router recommendation that has good hardware, but does not have expensive wifi functionality that I am not going to use?
Thank you very much in advance and keep up the good work!
Kind regards,
Thomas
You’re correct, Thomas. If you choose to use a few Omada APs, get a Wi-Fi 5 router, like the Asus RT-AC86U — you can leave it Wi-Fi on, just make sure it’s the same as that of the APs. By the way, you can skip the controller. I’ve installed many Omada set since the review and found that the controller is only necessary when you have a lot of APs. Otherwise, just use a computer and the software — you only need that for the setup or when you wanted to change the settings.
Thank you very much for your quick response! If I leave the Wi-Fi on, won’t I suffer from poorly managed connections, as it does not work together with the Mesh of Omada?
Also, a bit similar to my question above, if I skip the controller (software), will the seamless roaming between the APs still work? Or is seamless roaming just working out of the box if I plug them into the router (with a PoE adapter in between of course)?
I was planning to install the controller software on a single board pc like the RaspberryPi or something else, and install some other stuff on it as well. Would you recommend this?
Kind regards,
Thomas
That depends on how close the router is to the APs. If they are too close, yes, it’s a good idea to turn its Wi-Fi off. If not leave it on. It’s a matter of trial and error. As for the AP, yes, once set up it’ll work. The controller is more for managing and monitoring which is only applied to a big network of 5 or more APs. But of course, it doesn’t hurt to have a controller (software or hardware). Whatever computer you use, make sure it can run the software.
Thanks for your excellent write-up. However, Mike is correct in this case. TP-Link’s Mesh capability refers ONLY to wireless connection between outdoor access points. Please consult the Omada manual for details “3.1.4 Configure Mesh: Mesh is used to establish a wireless network or expand a wired network through wireless connection on 5GHz radio band. In practical application, it can help users to conveniently deploy APs without requiring Ethernet cable. After mesh network establishes, the EAP devices can be configured and managed within Omada controller in the same way as wired EAPs. Meanwhile, because of the ability to self-organize and self-configure, mesh also can efficiently reduce the configuration overhead.”
I only tested the hardware using PoE, Josiah, and the system did allow for the seamless hand-off. While a wireless setup will work, it’s just pointless considering these are PoE APs, especially the Outdoor one which has no alternative way to get power.
When the APs are wired in, it’s no longer a mesh.
It should also be noted that there is no such thing as seamless handoff in Wi-Fi. When changing APs, a client must disassociate from one AP and then scan for and associate to another. The infrastructure is not involved in this decision, it is entirely up to the client device. This process usually happens in a few hundred milliseconds, but the infrastructure can reject an association request on a particular access point, and force the client to go elsewhere, but that increases the downtime during roaming (this is also how band steering works).
Hi! I am planning to setup 2 EAP outdoor, 1 being the root AP and will connect the other EAP as mesh. I understand that this is POE. Do i have to have a long cable to power my EAP if I am planning to deploy it approximately 100m from the root AP? Sorry for the noob question.
Not a noob question, Ryan. You can daisy-chain PoE devices, as long as each device (PoE receiver) has an injector of its own. More on that here.
Hi Dong,
Love you site and work!
I’m having trouble setting up TP-Link mesh network with Omada Controller app win10.
I have 2 pieces of EAP245 and want these as mesh networks. I find both AP in Access Pionts – Overview. But if I go to Access Pionts – Mesh Network, the column is blank.
in Wireless Settings is set as “Mesh: Enable”
both EAP245 are wired for tp-Link Poe standalone switch.
Could you make a short video on how to set up the mesh network with tplinkcloud / omada controller?
Brg
Norway
Looks like they are already in a mesh system, Lasse. There must be a setting somewhere.
Hello I have two eap 225 and one oc200, I have the system set up and it a working but I’m only getting half my speed. When I connect to the regular router, I get my full speed at 200mbps, any thing you can think of that I’m doing wrong
Make sure your wired connection to the APs is Gigabit, Kevin.
I have a tp link ax60000 and an esa245, I have noticed that OneMesh is coming soon to my router and am wondering if I made a mistake going with Omada mesh?
OneMesh is different from Omada, Cliff. I don’t think OneMesh applies to the AP. But you can use the AP with any router, if you make its Wi-Fi network the same as the router you kind of have a mesh.
What is the difference between Band Steering and Smart Connect. I’m a bit confused as these APs have band steering, which I found very similar to Smart Connect.
SmartConnect is an easy way to configure band steering, Dexter. With these APs, you’ll need to set that up yourself; the first step is to manually name two bands with the same Wi-Fi network name and password. The point is these APs are not as easy to use as home routers.
I’m not sure mesh is the best setup with these devices, since I believe that mesh(“Omada Mesh”) means sharing AP connectivity over wifi and that if your Ethernet connected you are actually degrading your performance. I notice if I turn mesh on my network that the 5G channels go to all the same and the performance is not as good and sometimes is downright awful. Where as if I turn mesh off the 5G channels spread out and the performance goes way up. I believe mesh is only for “wireless” extended networks, not Ethernet connected.
Note my AP’s are all on the same Ethernet and I do not use “mesh”. I still get seamless roaming, band steering etc. Also I do not need the controller running on the network unless I want to manage remotely, I believe that the “Omada OC200 Cloud Controller” or the PC management software, is only for management, and once setup it does not affect your mesh or network performance.
The documentation is not great for this on the tplink site, but I’ve been using these at multiple locations for a few years now and this is my findings.
Hi Mike,
You can have handoff with any access points using the same SSID and passwords (as long as they and the clients support 802.11k/v/r). You can have band-steering with a single broadcaster. Mesh makes things better by improving handoff and delivering centralized management. It makes broadcasters work together instead of independently. Mesh is NOT wireless-only, it works with wired backhaul. Try the controller and you’ll notice the difference yourself.
-Dong.
If I get a few EAP245 V3 and give them all the same SSID and password, do I need the cloud controller to make it a mesh system (ie to manage a seamless handoff from one AP to another)? Or can the APs handle that without help from the cloud controller? Thanks!
Yes, having the same SSID and password doesn’t automatically turn them into a mesh — no seamless handoff. You can download the controller software and run that on a computer (and skip the hardware controller) but, for the most part, the machine will need to run all the time. The controller is a good investment, it’s not that expensive.